Benevento: The Heart of Sannio

Benevento in 3 Days: A Cozy Dive into History and Tradition

Tucked away in the rolling hills of Campania, Benevento isn’t exactly on the usual tourist trail. This charming town, with its mix of Roman ruins, medieval churches, and rustic charm, often gets overshadowed by the more famous destinations in southern Italy. But for anyone willing to step off the beaten path, Benevento offers a rewarding glimpse into the history, culture, and folklore of the region. If you’re looking for a quiet, authentic Italian experience with just the right amount of adventure, Benevento is the place to be.

Day 1: Benevento's Roman Past and Old Town Vibes

Morning: Roman Theatre and the Arch of Trajan

Benevento’s history is practically written in stone. Start your day by heading straight to the Roman Theatre, just a short walk from the city center. Built in the 2nd century, the theatre is one of the best-preserved in Italy. With the remains of seating and a stage, it’s easy to imagine the performances that once captivated the locals. It’s not a major tourist spot, so you can explore in peace and really take in the surroundings.

After that, make your way to the Arch of Trajan. Located at the entrance of the old town, this triumphal arch was built to commemorate the Roman Emperor Trajan's victories. It’s a striking piece of architecture, and while it’s hard to miss, its detailed reliefs—showing scenes of military conquests—make it worth pausing for a closer look.

Lunch: Taste Local Flavors in the Old Town

By now, you’ll likely be feeling a bit hungry, and Benevento’s old town is full of places to satisfy your appetite. Pop into a family-run trattoria for a taste of local cuisine. You can’t leave without trying cavatelli con ragù, small pasta with a rich meat sauce. Or go for something a bit more rustic like frittata di maccheroni (pasta fritters), a dish that’s as hearty as it sounds. Don’t forget to end the meal with a plate of struffoli—fried dough balls drenched in honey and sugar.

Afternoon: The Cathedral and the Longobard Temple

Spend your afternoon in the historical heart of the city. Start at Benevento Cathedral, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, the city’s patron saint. The cathedral may not be as grand as others in Italy, but its blend of Romanesque and Baroque architecture is charming. Inside, the crypt holds beautiful frescoes depicting scenes from St. Bartholomew’s life—a quiet spot for reflection.

Next, take a short walk to the Longobard Temple, an 8th-century structure that now sits in ruins. Though much of it has crumbled, the remains still evoke a sense of the city’s medieval past. From here, you can enjoy a nice view of the surrounding hills—an ideal spot to pause and take in the landscape.

Evening: Dinner in Piazza Orsini

In the evening, make your way to Piazza Orsini, the beating heart of Benevento. It’s an excellent spot to enjoy dinner and soak in the town’s laid-back vibe. Local favorites like agnello alla Beneventana (lamb cooked with herbs and wine) or a simple but flavorful cacciatora (hunter-style chicken) pair perfectly with a glass of Aglianico del Taburno, the region's red wine. After dinner, take a stroll around the square or sit back with an aperitif and let the evening unfold.

Day 2: Dive Deeper into Benevento’s Art and Surroundings

Morning: Museo del Sannio

Begin your second day with a visit to the Museo del Sannio, located just a short walk from the Roman Theatre. This museum offers an excellent overview of the region’s ancient history, with artifacts from the Samnite, Roman, and medieval periods. From intricate pottery to impressive statues, it’s a treasure trove of history. A must-see here is the Witches’ Room, which displays objects related to Benevento’s infamous witch trials—a darker, but fascinating chapter of the city’s story.

Lunch: A Taste of the Market

For lunch, head to the lively Piazza Risorgimento, home to Benevento’s market. Here, you’ll find stalls selling everything from fresh produce to artisanal cheeses and cured meats. Pick up a few local treats, like caciocavallo (a semi-hard cheese) or some soppressata (local salami), and enjoy a picnic in one of the nearby parks. It’s a relaxed way to enjoy the flavors of the region, especially when accompanied by a glass of Falanghina, a crisp white wine from the Campania region.

Afternoon: Explore Benevento’s Green Spaces

In the afternoon, head to Parco del Grassano, a peaceful park just outside the city center. The park is full of walking paths, shady trees, and tranquil ponds, making it an ideal place to unwind and escape the heat. If you’re in the mood for something a little more active, take a short hike up Monte Taburno for panoramic views over Benevento and the surrounding countryside. The views are worth the effort, especially in the late afternoon when the light is perfect for photos.

Evening: A Quiet Night in Benevento

After a full day of exploration, head back to the town center for a relaxed evening. If you’re in the mood for a more low-key dinner, there are plenty of smaller osterias and cafes to try. Order a simple pasta dish like spaghetti alle vongole or pasta e fagioli, and take your time enjoying it. Benevento’s nightlife is pretty laid-back, so you can either choose to enjoy a quiet drink at a local bar or take a post-dinner stroll through the streets, which are particularly magical when the sun sets.

Day 3: Folklore, Vineyards, and the Quiet Countryside

Morning: Witches and Legends of Benevento

For your last day in Benevento, it’s time to dig into the town’s rich folklore. Benevento has long been associated with witches and magic, and you can’t visit without exploring this intriguing side of its history. Begin with a visit to Piazza delle Streghe (Witches’ Square), where it’s said that witches would gather during the Middle Ages. Legend has it that Benevento was a hotspot for witchcraft, and many tales still persist today. There’s something both eerie and fascinating about the air here, as if you’re stepping into a world of magic and mystery.

Also, visit Santa Sofia Church, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which is shrouded in myths and legends. This small but important building from the 8th century is rumored to have been a gathering place for occult rituals, though its religious significance is undeniable. Whether or not you buy into the supernatural stories, the history and mystery surrounding this church make it well worth a visit.

Lunch: Wine and the Campanian Countryside

In the afternoon, it’s time to leave the city behind and explore the rolling hills of Campania. A short drive out of Benevento will take you to some of the region’s top vineyards. The Aglianico del Taburno wine route is a must for anyone interested in local wines. Visit one of the family-owned vineyards for a tour and tasting, where you can sample robust reds made from the Aglianico grape, unique to the region. Pair your wine with a traditional cheese platter or a simple roast pork dish—perfect for a leisurely lunch in the countryside.

Afternoon: Castles and Views

Before you wrap up your time in Benevento, take a quick detour to Castello di San Giorgio del Sannio, located just a few kilometers outside the city. This medieval castle has been partially restored and offers sweeping views of the valley below. The castle is surrounded by greenery, making it a pleasant place for a final exploration of the area.

Evening: Farewell Dinner

For your last meal, head back into town for a final dinner at Ristorante Le Tre Lune, where you can enjoy classic Beneventan cuisine in a cozy atmosphere. Try the torta caprese, a rich, chocolatey dessert that’ll leave you savoring the flavors of Benevento until your next visit.

Benevento: A Quiet Escape Steeped in History

After three days in Benevento, you’ll leave with a sense of having discovered a place that feels like a well-kept secret. With its blend of history, folklore, and scenic beauty, Benevento invites you to take things slow and savor the moments. It’s not a city that rushes or shouts for attention, but rather a place that reveals itself to those willing to explore its quiet streets, ancient sites, and natural wonders. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or simply someone looking to relax in an off-the-beaten-path destination, Benevento promises an authentic Italian experience.